Karate Pyjamas

Basically a website which combines ambient chill-axing music with police or air-traffic scanners from real world live streams
 
http://youarelistening.to/lax
 
It just... Works?

Basically a website which combines ambient chill-axing music with police or air-traffic scanners from real world live streams
 
http://youarelistening.to/lax
 
It just... Works?

If you are going for the PS3 eye, make sure to get a 1st generation camera! The later versions have the IR filter between the lensen and there's no way to get to them! Also, be very carefull when taking them apart, the IR lens is a bitch to remove. Luckily there are plenty of tutorials online. Also, I believe you do need 1 piece of software (CL PS3 Eye https://codelaboratories.com/downloads/) before the PS3 eye works, which is not freeware, but it only costs a few dollars.
 
Furthermore, I'm running it without an ambient light filter, so if I use it I have to make sure my room is pretty darn dark.

I made myself a FreeTrack tracker using a PS3 Eye camera with the IR filter removed. The clip I made from Capri Sun straws and the central hub was made from a large plastic cap from an ice-tea bottle. It's held together with electrical tape, hotglue, shabby soldering and zipties. I usually throw my headset around when I take them off but I haven't had any damage to it yet. I built it about a year ago now.
 
I don't really use it anymore, but hey, for a <50€ build it's alright. As infantry I don't see any value in it, for piloting, perhaps a bit more useful as I use a joystick to fly. (Though I don't have enough USB ports to keep both the PS3 Eye and my Joystick running...)
 
The main issue I have with trackers is that you have to sit very still in front of your screen, I tend to change position on my seat a lot, sometimes sitting in really awkward positions, which immediately renders your calibration useless. My style of sitting simply doesn't work with trackers. I also don't like straining my eyes when I want to look around, moving my head left or right and still looking at the screen gives me a rapid headache.

I guess the bottom line is, you either love it or hate it, it's not for everyone.

Small movements make it feel really awkward for me, which is why trackers aren't for me. Everyone you see them using have some experience, but it definitely takes sometime to get used to.

I made myself a FreeTrack tracker using a PS3 Eye camera with the IR filter removed. The clip I made from Capri Sun straws and the central hub was made from a large plastic cap from an ice-tea bottle. It's held together with electrical tape, hotglue, shabby soldering and zipties. I usually throw my headset around when I take them off but I haven't had any damage to it yet. I built it about a year ago now.
 
I don't really use it anymore, but hey, for a <50€ build it's alright. As infantry I don't see any value in it, for piloting, perhaps a bit more useful as I use a joystick to fly. (Though I don't have enough USB ports to keep both the PS3 Eye and my Joystick running...)
 
The main issue I have with trackers is that you have to sit very still in front of your screen, I tend to change position on my seat a lot, sometimes sitting in really awkward positions, which immediately renders your calibration useless. My style of sitting simply doesn't work with trackers. I also don't like straining my eyes when I want to look around, moving my head left or right and still looking at the screen gives me a rapid headache.

I guess the bottom line is, you either love it or hate it, it's not for everyone.

I made myself a FreeTrack tracker using a PS3 Eye camera with the IR filter removed. The clip I made from Capri Sun straws and the central hub was made from a large plastic cap from an ice-tea bottle. It's held together with electrical tape, hotglue, shabby soldering and zipties. I usually throw my headset around when I take them off but I haven't had any damage to it yet. I built it about a year ago now.
 
I don't really use it anymore, but hey, for a <50€ build it's alright. As infantry I don't see any value in it, for piloting, perhaps a bit more useful as I use a joystick to fly. (Though I don't have enough USB ports to keep both the PS3 Eye and my Joystick running...)
 
The main issue I have with trackers is that you have to sit very still in front of your screen, I tend to change position on my seat a lot, sometimes sitting in really awkward positions, which immediately renders your calibration useless. My style of sitting simply doesn't work with trackers. I also don't like straining my eyes when I want to look around, moving my head left or right and still looking at the screen gives me a rapid headache.

I guess the bottom line is, you either love it or hate it, it's not for everyone.

Immature admins is the whole reason I play here
 
Also, k thnx bai. See you never.

I'd say we're actually in the opposite ditch now. Everything seems to die to a single 5.56 to the chest, passing straight through the heaviest of armors.

Confirmed in virtual arsenal - you can punch through any vest with a Ruger 22.  Shooting in the legs and arms will wound, while body shots will kill 100%.

Immature admins is the whole reason I play here
 
Also, k thnx bai. See you never.

I can't record gameplay, but I'm definitely willing to help you out with acting or writing.

Edit: Perhaps Logi as specialst role?

HI, I made an EU #3 Basic tutorial, watch this space as more tutorials, especially leadership / Role specific ones to follow.
 
I will also add, in brief here for new players, log onto Teamspeak, and then join the server, the TFAR Plugin will move you into the EU #3 channel as you load in. If your in game and not in the right channel, in TS go to settings - plugins and then re-load all.
 
Here is a link to the loadouts I use, as exported by the arsenal : https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FdtX6r3ANBXEb-2d7AoXKzMGfIwISNCMe1zCTIfrvng/edit?usp=sharing
 
How to Eu#3 Basic -:- https://youtu.be/_2rKh3kVXLw
 
How to Role Select -:- https://youtu.be/6LaAEnJryvs
 
How to Teamplay -:- COMING SOON
 
How to Radio -:- COMING SOON
 
How to Team and Squad Lead -:- COMING SOON
 
How to Platoon Command -:- COMING SOON
 
How to Medic -:- COMING SOON
 
How to HAT + MAT -:- In consideration
 
How to MMG -:- In consideration
 
How to Logistics -:- In consideration
 
How to Pilot -:- In consideration
 
How to Vehicle Crew -:- In consideration
 
Other specialist roles?
 
At this moment in time (as well as helping VERY new players) I'm looking for recommendation's on the format, quality and help from anyone and everyone on writing scripts, and recording footage for role specific stuff, especially roles I'm really not proficient in myself (Marksman, MAT, Hammer etc).
 
Thanks in advance for any and all help,
Lone.

Goodbye walkbug, I remember shooting Luetin in his les "favourite leg" then having the bullet ricochet from the wall behind him into his other leg. Oh, the memories.

A small topic about Mortars

This video of mine explains the following methods of zeroing in a mortar:
Calculation Range table  
It also features:
Using map-grid for target acquisition Terrain Elevation Map tools (Mills, bearing, distance)  
Why you want this:
More precise control Low angle and High angle attack ETA to impact Precise Bearing and Elevation numbers Allows for blind firing So you're no longer an artillery computer scrub  
Download the Artillery Sheet here:

The video explains it all:
Map techniques are interwoven with the methods.
0:47 - 6:52 Artillery Sheet method (Map Grid + GPS + Contour Levels) 6:52 - 9:12 82mm Range table Method (Maptools)

UPDATE 1-1-2016 Fire Mission Routine:

When operating in the some of the cramped environments like we tend to do at times, it's important to follow proper Fire Discipline to avoid friendly casualties when firing artillery shells. It takes time for shells to impact at the designated location so make sure you give friendlies enough time to retreat or prevent them from moving up when shells are danger close.

 

Here's an example fire mission that includes all the options (adjust, repeat):

Update 23-12-2017 Mortar Trajectory Explained:
 
With this update I've included 4 plots that explain how the mortar trajectory works and how one should compensate the trajectory for uphill and downhill shooting.

First we look at the angle the mortar fires at. Increasing the elevation we can fire at things closer to us. If we lower the elevation we can get a bit more distance out of the mortar.



We now look at how the charge of the mortar affects its trajectory. A bigger charge allows us to reach out further when we keep the elevation constant. We can also use this to our advantage. For example, if there is a really big mountain in the way perhaps it's wise to select a bigger charge so you know you will clear the mountain.


Now lets look at the theory behind shooting a target above or below you. First we tackle a target above the mortar:

When we use the maptools we can get a range to the target of dx. However, since the target is above us we can see that if we were to dial in the mortar for that distance dx we would shoot the red trajectory and hit in front of the target. Therefore we need to adjust our elevation downwards so we can hit the target. The range table gives an adjustment in 100m height difference intervals. If there is only a 50-meter difference feel free to just divide the adjustment given by the range table in half or interpolate for other differences. However, a height difference of 10 to 20 meters relative to your own height shouldn't really cause any issues, and adjustment is considered optional.

Downhill shooting is very similar to uphill shooting. However, instead of lowering our elevation we increase our elevation as shown in the following diagram. The indicated numbers on the range table for adjusting the mortar work similarly, but instead we now adjust in the other direction.


Understanding the trajectory of your mortar shells is very important to minimize civilian/blufor casualties and to get pinpoint accuracy. That said, the further your target is away the larger the deviations will be, so don't expect pin-point accuracy on targets beyond 1.5km

I find that suggestion incredibly amusing. I'm not the one suggesting fancy pants for a better gameplay (realism?) experience. The thing is to do missions on the server, not trying to match the color of your boots with your helmet, I seriously don't understand why people care so much about how they look in game. I don't care about load-outs as long as I am recognizable for my team so I don't get shot in the back.

This issue was addressed months ago as well. It was getting out of hand. They removed a LOT of gear because if you want to play dress-up, then don't take up slots on the server but do it on the VAS in the main menu. So keep on trying, switching back and forth between more and less gear isn't going to happen.

#voteagainstdressup #kony2012

I'm not a big fan of reporting first timers. Is there any way to force new people to read the rules?
 
In an old community I was part of we had a screen pop-up with the rules with a accept and decline button at the bottom. When you clicked accept it would kick you from the server. Halfway in the rules the "Click Decline Instead" message was hidden and it worked like a charm.

And yet these little rules being added constantly are really killing the overall experience. It really feels like if someone makes a stupid silly mistake a new rule is enforced to prevent that from happening again. I'm very open in the way that I'm not afraid to say that I don't fully agree on the way AW is maintained, I myself try to play by the rules simply because I hate getting told off. But every time a new rule is added I get annoyed. Especially when rules are so thoroughly enforced on some of the long time members.

#voteagainstdressup #kony2012

I'm not a big fan of reporting first timers. Is there any way to force new people to read the rules?
 
In an old community I was part of we had a screen pop-up with the rules with a accept and decline button at the bottom. When you clicked accept it would kick you from the server. Halfway in the rules the "Click Decline Instead" message was hidden and it worked like a charm.

Well, we probably should have a few camo guidelines. Last week someone asked what camo he could use. One of us responded that he was free to pick anything, within reason. We ended up running around with a stormtrooper in our midst.

If you'd were to use it, I'd suggest heavily down grading the mod and only selecting a few categories/theme's. Dress-up on the server is already as bad as it is.

If you'd were to use it, I'd suggest heavily down grading the mod and only selecting a few categories/theme's. Dress-up on the server is already as bad as it is.

It's a hobby I try to hide from people in real life for quite a while, the reactions are always a bit mixed, but mostly positive.
 
I've been actively building with K'NEX since 2007 when I met my best friend online. He has been building for ages with K'NEX and posted video's online of them. I got into contact with him and we've been best friends ever since.
 
We build K'NEX models of Roller-Coasters and fairground attractions. We also run a hobby group in the Netherlands (and Belgium) and are both core staff on the international K'NEX forum. Last year we were also contacted by a toy distributor in the Netherlands who had obtained the rights to sell K'NEX in mainland Europe. We've been doing some models and fairs for them where we display our models and promote the brand. My mate is actually go to start an intern ship after the summer at that company. Oh, and before you ask, yes we are sponsored since we were approached by that company. However, we have so much K'NEX at home that more free pieces don't really make a difference in our collection It's hardly a dent.
 
Showing our models to the public isn't something new to us, we've been showing our models at fairs and museums since 2009. We've invested a lot in our stand and everything around it, banners, cards etc. We also found the potential of running our models via an Arduino or a similar electronic circuit. Interactivity with models is great to the public, being able to start the models yourself keeps children and adults hooked for hours! (Plus, when the model is not running it saves us a lot of maintenance )
 
Enough of the talk, let's show you some videos!
 
The first model we displayed under our group "Dutch Details" (the origins of which lay at the international forum where people ran fictitious coaster building companies, we wanted to provide a safe haven for Dutch speaking members), was Looping Star. Modeled after classic Schwarzkopf Roller-Coaster in the Netherlands (the themepark is 'Slagharen').





Also the first time we had an Arduino installed and flashy lights at the top

The year after I built XenoX which is a roller-coaster that travels on European fairgrounds: 




This model was more advanced as it allowed for multiple trains to run at the same time.

My mate then saw the potential of the Arduino and started developing his own platform, which he implemented in this BEAST of a model, which was displayed at a toy museum: 




But when more orders came in and large roller-coasters weren't always possible to place at fairs we had to develop some flatrides too. Like a record breaking ferriswheel standing over 4.60m or 15ft tall!





(That's my mate who is 1.95m tall posing in front of it)
You can find more on it here:
http://www.dutchdetails.net/portfolio/great-wheel-of-holland/











The museum we've been at before then invited us for a second time, this time to build an entire themepark spreading over 120 m2!




I'd suggest you stroll through our portfolio to see ALL of the individual rides we've built over the years. Also, the newer roller-coasters feature some on-rides videos! So be sure to check those out!

http://www.dutchdetails.net/portfolio/

Cheers for watching and reading! (Subs on our YT channel are welcome too )
 

A small topic about Mortars

This video of mine explains the following methods of zeroing in a mortar:
Calculation Range table  
It also features:
Using map-grid for target acquisition Terrain Elevation Map tools (Mills, bearing, distance)  
Why you want this:
More precise control Low angle and High angle attack ETA to impact Precise Bearing and Elevation numbers Allows for blind firing So you're no longer an artillery computer scrub  
Download the Artillery Sheet here:

The video explains it all:
Map techniques are interwoven with the methods.
0:47 - 6:52 Artillery Sheet method (Map Grid + GPS + Contour Levels) 6:52 - 9:12 82mm Range table Method (Maptools)

UPDATE 1-1-2016 Fire Mission Routine:

When operating in the some of the cramped environments like we tend to do at times, it's important to follow proper Fire Discipline to avoid friendly casualties when firing artillery shells. It takes time for shells to impact at the designated location so make sure you give friendlies enough time to retreat or prevent them from moving up when shells are danger close.

 

Here's an example fire mission that includes all the options (adjust, repeat):

Update 23-12-2017 Mortar Trajectory Explained:
 
With this update I've included 4 plots that explain how the mortar trajectory works and how one should compensate the trajectory for uphill and downhill shooting.

First we look at the angle the mortar fires at. Increasing the elevation we can fire at things closer to us. If we lower the elevation we can get a bit more distance out of the mortar.



We now look at how the charge of the mortar affects its trajectory. A bigger charge allows us to reach out further when we keep the elevation constant. We can also use this to our advantage. For example, if there is a really big mountain in the way perhaps it's wise to select a bigger charge so you know you will clear the mountain.


Now lets look at the theory behind shooting a target above or below you. First we tackle a target above the mortar:

When we use the maptools we can get a range to the target of dx. However, since the target is above us we can see that if we were to dial in the mortar for that distance dx we would shoot the red trajectory and hit in front of the target. Therefore we need to adjust our elevation downwards so we can hit the target. The range table gives an adjustment in 100m height difference intervals. If there is only a 50-meter difference feel free to just divide the adjustment given by the range table in half or interpolate for other differences. However, a height difference of 10 to 20 meters relative to your own height shouldn't really cause any issues, and adjustment is considered optional.

Downhill shooting is very similar to uphill shooting. However, instead of lowering our elevation we increase our elevation as shown in the following diagram. The indicated numbers on the range table for adjusting the mortar work similarly, but instead we now adjust in the other direction.


Understanding the trajectory of your mortar shells is very important to minimize civilian/blufor casualties and to get pinpoint accuracy. That said, the further your target is away the larger the deviations will be, so don't expect pin-point accuracy on targets beyond 1.5km